WASHINGTON, D.C.
Inside Arrels with Chef Pepe Moncayo: Spanish Roots, Japanese Precision, Michelin Credentials
By Eric Barton | July 17, 2025
AUTHOR BIO: Eric Barton is editor of The Adventurist and a freelance journalist who has reviewed restaurants for more than two decades. Email him here.
Some chefs have resumes. Chef Pepe Moncayo has a pilgrimage.
Born in Barcelona, trained in the culinary temples of Can Fabes and Via Veneto, he’s cooked for nearly two decades in three countries, marrying the precision of Japanese technique with the soul of Spanish tradition. You might know him from Cranes, the D.C. restaurant that snagged a Michelin star just two years after opening. His new project, Arrels, is something different—a more personal return to his Catalan roots, where rustic traditions meet refined technique in dishes like octopus fabada and rabbit paella.
I spoke with Moncayo about building kitchen culture, his secret to longevity in fine dining, and how losing his mother led him to cooking. He’s thoughtful, a little philosophical, and, like any great chef, obsessed with his ingredients.
Pepe Moncayo
You’ve worked in some of Spain’s most legendary kitchens. What did those early years teach you?
At Via Veneto, aside from learning countless incredible dishes, it was a formative experience in helping me understand the kind of chef and leader I wanted to become. Don’t get me wrong, the head chef was insanely talented and one of the hardest-working people I’ve ever seen. His intensity came from the high standards he was trained under. While the environment could be tough at times, uncompromising and emotionally charged, it gave me a clear picture of the kind of kitchen culture I hoped to foster myself: one rooted in collaboration, composure, and mutual respect.
At Can Fabes, under chef Santi Santamaria, it was a different story. I’ve never been happier or felt more accomplished as a professional. The best ingredients, in abundance, something new to learn every day—hunters and farmers walking in to sell their goods, Chef bargaining with them on the spot, and us driving five times a week to the port to buy fish straight from the auction. My only worry was perfecting my station and cooking the best food possible. I was part of a crew of 25 young cooks working for free, just to be there. Sixteen-hour shifts felt like pure joy. Pressure, demand, consistency—they were part of the game, but there was respect across the board. Staff meal was sacred. We all sat together—dishwasher, sommelier, cooks, chef Santi. That sense of family stayed with me.
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Growing up in Barcelona, what first pulled you into the kitchen?
What pulled me into the kitchen was actually a tragedy. My mom passed away when I was 14, and my dad was as equipped for cooking as I was. My brother was in the army, and my little sister was only eight. I took it upon myself to cook for the family. I’d shop at the market before school and cook lunch and dinner in the afternoons. I fell in love with it. I started collecting cookbooks and replicating recipes. By the time I had to choose a college path, it was clear to me I wanted to cook, so I joined culinary school.
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Arrels means “roots” in Catalan. What part of your personal or culinary heritage did you feel hadn’t been fully expressed until this project?
Part of becoming a chef is finding your own voice. That happened to me in Singapore when I opened my second restaurant. I found my style of cooking there—the pantry, the influences, they all played a role. With Arrels, I now have the chance, in my maturity as a cook, to look inward and connect with my roots, then filter them through my own lens.
Moncayo in the kitchen at Arrels
How did spending nearly a decade in Singapore, immersed in Japanese culture, change the way you think about Spanish food?
Japanese cuisine really struck a chord with me—the culture, the relentless pursuit of perfection. I have such a love for it. Traveling and experiencing different cuisines and ingredients expanded my perspective, but Spanish food remains a celebration of simplicity, seasonality, and bold flavors. It’s about letting exceptional ingredients—olive oil, seafood, cured meats, vibrant produce—speak for themselves. Rooted in centuries of tradition and regional diversity, it reflects a deep connection to land, sea, and community.
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Cranes earned a Michelin star just two years after opening, and now Arrels brings a more personal connection to your cooking. How do you maintain precision across multiple restaurants?
When Paul Bocuse was asked who cooks when he’s not in the kitchen, he replied: “The same people who cook when I am there.” Cooking and hospitality are team sports. It’s about empowering your people and building a culture where excellence happens even in your absence.
When you’re developing a new dish, where do you begin?
The ingredients. I need to touch it, taste it, let it speak to me. From there, inspiration flows.
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Most restaurants don’t survive five years, let alone earn stars. What’s the secret to longevity in fine dining—especially in a city like D.C.?
It’s a tough business. I’ve been the new kid on the block, and I know it takes presence. You need solid cuisine, a strong and empowered team, and the drive to offer true hospitality, not just good service. Consistency is everything. At the same time, you can’t ignore the financial side—cost control, hitting your goals. Sounds easy, right? It’s not.
On the rare day off, what’s your ideal way to unwind?
Family time. Cooking together, watching movies, hiking, you name it. They help me disconnect, put things in perspective, and sometimes even put me in my place. Especially my youngest—he couldn’t care less about my professional accolades.
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