The Best Fremont Restaurant: Semo Pasta + Wine
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Semo Pasta + Wine is Drew Statz and Michelle Statz’s downtown Fremont restaurant, with Audrey Timm running the kitchen as head chef. This is the rare small-city spot that’ll shave truffles on a pasta dish and act like that’s totally normal around these parts. The food absolutely backs up that bravado: blood sausage over polenta with amarena cherry, halibut crudo with Calabrian chili and lemon, and the kind of tajarin that turns into a vehicle for a truly irresponsible amount of shaved truffle when it is available.
The pasta list reads like someone is trying to prove a point—mafaldine with bolognese and Pecorino, carbonara with guanciale and pink peppercorn, and other shapes that keep Fremont from feeling like it has to apologize for wanting something more than chicken Parmesan. — Jamie Dutton
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